Curing
Curing has been performed as far back as the 13th century. It was originally done as a preservation method as to insure against poor harvests and hunting seasons. The first recorded curing was done with cod in Europe in 3,500 BC with salt from the Dead Sea. The Romans learned about curing from the Greeks and the first "salus" was produced. Upon the fall of the Roman Empire sausage making and the festivities associated with it were banned by the Christians as it was deemed too good for the lowly Romans. They continued to produce their favorite delicacy, bootlegging it and, thankfully, the ban was lifted after raucous protests. And here we are today. Chorizo, salami. pepperoni, prosciutto and Jimmy Deans Pork Sausage all result from this complex process.
There are three types of curing meats: dry curing (salt), wet curing (salt and liquid) and combination curing. Curing, no matter which method, involves several processes, the most significant of which is denaturing of the proteins. This happens when salt is introduced to the meats proteins. Proteins are coils and the salt causes the proteins in the muscle fibers to unwind and absorb the extra water trapped inside. Water inside your meat spells trouble because bacteria love water so eliminating it by salting and drying allows for longer storage. (That´s why that beef jerky you´ve had since college is still good.)
With dry curing, a mixture of salt, nitrates or nitrites, and sugar is rubbed on the outside of the meat. The sugar is used to offset the harshness of the salt and the nitrites and nitrates not only help kill bacteria, but also enhance flavor and color. As the salt mixture migrates inside, the meat´s natural moisture travels out. An equilibrium is achieved when all of the salt is inside and no more water loss occurs. Time is, of course, dependant on weight however a good rule of thumb is 2 days per pound. Dry curing is the fastest method, however it results in the greatest loss of original weight usually 15-20%. Great care must be taken when rubbing the salt on to the piece of meat. The area around the bone is most likely to spoil so an extra amount is applied there. The meat is salted again after several days and a third time after several more days. If other spices are to be added, it is done at the third stage. This is done in stages to ensure a continuous supply of salt. Cuts of meat commonly cured using this method are pork belly, bacon, and the loin. In sausage making, all of the ingredients, including the cure, are mixed together. In some cases, the mixture sits in a controlled temperature before going in the casing, other times, it is stuffed first, then goes to the temperature controlled drying room for anywhere from 3 weeks to 2 months. If smoking is done, it is done after the drying process. There has been much controversy regarding the presence if nitrates and nitrites in food. Their use is carefully regulated and the concentration in finished products is limited to 200ppm. Saltpeter was used early on for curing and was discontinued due to the development of modern nitrates. It is still used in some charcuterie and brines, however sparingly. Saltpeter´s chemical name is potassium nitrate and is a component of gunpowder, fireworks, and certain explosives. Simply stated, without the use of these nitrates and nitrites, the finished product would not have the distinct color and delicious flavor we have come to expect.
Wet curing, or brining, is a slower process and traditionally used for larger cuts such as ham, corned beef brisket, and pastrami. It results in a much juicier product with a milder flavor. The meat is immersed in, and or, injected with , a curing solution of water, salt, and sugar. (Sugar is only used if the curing is to be done under refrigeration.) Some wet cured meats are smoked afterwards. Most cuts require 3-14 days of curing during which time the meat must be turned due to the fact that the salt settles to the bottom and the nitrites rise to the top. When wet curing large pieces, there is a real danger of the meat spoiling in the center where the bone is located. For this reason, the bone area may be injected with the cure before immersion. As the salt penetrates the meat, the natural juices from inside the meat travel out and combine with the curing liquid. The curing process is fast for the first few days, leveling off when there are equal amounts of salt inside and outside the meat. Impurities must be skimmed off the top periodically to prevent bacteria growth. When using the wet curing method, there is usually a 1% loss in weight. If smoking, the meat must be rinsed in cold running water to remove any salt on the outside and then dried in a well-ventilated area. Drying usually takes about a day.
When using a combination wet-dry method, the meat is rubbed with the cure and left for one day,rinsed, then placed in the wet solution for completion. This expedites the process and keeps the brine healthier.
Smoked meat, or fish, can be easily identified by their distinctive color. The reddish color is the result of the carbon compounds in the smoke combining with the natural pigments. Good woods to use for smoking are hardwoods such as hickory, pecan, mesquite and oak. Remember chemistry class? Well, there is a lot of basic chemistry going on in a smokehouse. One of the most important things that happens in the smoking process is the coagulation of the surface meat. The smoke emits acids and those acids adhere to the meat and form a layer of skin. This skin protects the meat from surface mold and bacteria. This is so vital because smoking is a slow process done at a low temperature, usually 225-250 degrees for fish and 160 degrees for meat. Some sausages are smoked for several months. A good example of this process at work is the skinless frankfurter- the meat is stuffed in the casing and placed in the smokehouse. The casing is eventually stripped off but the meat is held together by its own coagulated skin developed by the acids in the smoke. Internal temperature is the key indicator as to when your product is removed from the smoker; 150 internal degrees is desired. All casings are made from animal by- products, the most commonly used are made from stomach and intestinal linings of cow, sheep, and hog. Others are collagen, a byproduct of the hide of a cow. The hide is split, the outside is used for leather and the flesh side for casings. These are more desired by those in mass production due to their uniformity. Your neighborhood salumeria wouldn´t think of using a collagen casing.
Any fish can be smoked, however the fattier ones such as trout and salmon work best as they absorb the smoke more readily. Fish can be smoked using either the cold-smoke method or the hot-smoke method. The cold-smoking method is a longer one, the fish is kept at a temperature of 60-110 degrees for up to 24 hours. The best known cold-smoked fish is lox. The light cure produces a tender and moist product which is easily sliced. In the hot smoking method, the fish actually cooks in the smoker which is at about 180 degrees, This results in a firmer, flakier product. Fish commonly smoked in this way are sable, whitefish, mackerel and bluefish. Before smoking, fish can be cured using a brine or a dry cure method and nitrites are not necessary.
Savory Pork Sausage
From The Red Cat Cookbook
Serves 4
1 teaspoon sliced sage
1 ½ pounds ground pork
1 clove garlic, minced
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
cup dry white wine
1 ¼ pounds littleneck clams, scrubbed
1 ½ ounces bacon, (about 1 ½ strips) finely diced
½ medium onion, finely diced
Pinch of red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon finely diced roasted red pepper
¾ cup dark chicken stock
5 canned peeled tomatoes, crushed by hand, with their juice
1 tablespoon canola oil
¼ teaspoon chopped oregano
½ teaspoon sliced cilantro
2 tablespoons sliced parsley
1 tablespoon butter
Put the pork in a bowl and add the sage, half of the garlic, 1 teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper. Knead to incorporate, then divide into 4 portions, shaping each one into a 1-inch-thick patty. Set on a plate, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until ready to cook, but no longer than 48 hours.
When ready to cook, let the patties come to room temperature and preheat oven to 400 degrees. Pour the wine into a large, heavy- bottomed pot and heat it over medium-high heat. Add the clams, cover, and steam until the clams open, approximately 3 minutes. Discard any clams that have not opened. Strain the cooking liquid through a fine-mesh strainer set the liquid aside. When the clams are cool enough to handle, remove the top half of each shell and discard it.
Put the bacon in a heavy-bottomed pot and cook over medium heat until it renders enough fat to coat the bottom of the pot, approximately 3 minutes. Add the onions and remaining garlic, and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the red pepper flakes, roasted red pepper, stock, tomatoes, and reserved clam cooking liquid and simmer for 8 minutes.
Meanwhile, pour the oil in a wide, deep, ovenproof skillet, preferably cast iron, and heat it over medium-high heat. Season the patties with salt and pepper and brown them on one side for 2 minutes. Turn them over and transfer to the oven until cooked through, approximately 10 minutes.
Stir the oregano, cilantro, parsley, and butter into the stew. Rest the clams on top of the stew for 30 seconds to reheat them.
Divide the clam stew among 4 shallow bowls, top each with a pork sausage and serve.
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