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It's a Small World
As we launch our new website, I am excited to introduce a new feature, the travel log. While chatting with some of you at The Red Cat and The Harrison over the years, the subject of travel has come up. I am asked on occasion where I like to go and what I like to do when I am in various parts of the world. That has prompted me to compile a list of recommendations, most I have visited, others came from friends, and pass them on.. It has been a fortune to have visited some wonderful places over the years and I would like to share them with you who I have come to know as friends. This is my way of perpetuating a favorite pastime: eating, drinking and talking about eating and drinking.
We are featuring Italy, a country near and dear to me, specifically the Lombardy region, the Piemonte region, Rome and the Lazio region, and Naples, the Amalfi Coast and the Campagnia region.
Our goal is have all the destinations up and viewable as soon as possible, so bear with us and keep checking back.
Paris
Hotels:
Hotel Lancaster - Small boutique hotel near Champs Elysees, has a lovely garden patio. The restaurant in the hotel, La Table Du Lancaster, is operated by Michel Troisgros who previously was awarded 3 Michelin stars.
7 Rue de Berri
33 1 40 76 40 76
Pershing Hall Hotel - Located in the "Golden Triangle" of Champs Elysees, Avenue Montaigne, and Avenue George V, this hotel is small, with only 26 rooms and a very nice spa; the restaurant offers a French-Japanese fusion menu and is surrounded by a vertical garden. The chef is formerly with Nobu.
49 Rue Pierre Charron
33 1 58 36 58 00
Montalembert Hotel - This is on the Left Bank, a short walk to the Louvre and Musee d'Orsay; there is a charming library with a fireplace and a summer terrace for relaxing.
3 Rue de Montalembert
33 1 45 49 68 68
Hotel de Crillon - This grand, 5 star hotel was commissioned by King Louis XV and built in 1758. It is one of the most exclusive hotels in the world and very expensive
10 Place de la Concorde
33 1 44 71 15 00
Bourg Tribourg - A little gem in the heart of the Marais quarter; charming rooms with personal touches throughout
19 Rue Bourg Tribourg
33 1 42 78 47 39
Les Rives de Notre Dame - Splendidly preserved residence with rooms all overlooking the Seine
15 Quai St-Michel
33 1 43 54 81 16
Du Petit Moulin - Christian Lacroix designed hotel with unique mix of traditional and modern design; very cosy bar
29 Rue du Poitou
33 1 42 74 10 10
L'Hotel - Features lofty atrium and extravagant Baroque décor. Oscar Wilde passed away here
13 Rue des Beaux Arts
33 1 44 41 99 00
Relais St-Sulpice - Rooms are exotically decorated with African and Asian themes
3 Rue Garanciere
33 1 46 33 99 00
L'Abbaye - Hotel in a former convent, combining old world charm with modern comfort; there is a lovely patio
10 Rue Cassette
33 1045 44 38 11
Meurice - One of the first luxury hotels, built in 1817; rooms are lavish and high floors offer panoramic views of Paris
228 Rue de Rivoli
33 1 44 58 10 10
De Vendome - Former private residence now a luxury hotel; marble throughout, rooms have unique antique furnishings
1 place Vendome
33 1 55 04 55 00
Ritz - Incomparable refinement; this hotel opened in 1898 and has housed Rudolph Valentino, Ernest Hemingway, and Coco Chanel; it is very expensive
15 Place Vendome
33 1 43 16 30 30
Restaurants:
Bistro Paul Bert - Classic bistro fare with flea market, kitshy décor; specials include veal kidneys in mustard sauce, monkfish in an herb-cream sauce and braised sea bass filet with risotto
18 Rue Paul-Bert
33 1 43 72 24 01
L'Ami Louis - This was one of the city's most famous brasseries in the 1930s. Located in one of Paris's least fashionable neighborhoods, the tables are wobbly, the lighting is bright, and the sauces are thick. The dishes are simply prepared but good. Must haves are the pate de foie gras and roast challans chicken for two.
The wine list is respectable with some very nice burgundys.
32 Rue de Vertbois
33 1 48 87 77 48
Benoit - In the same family sine it opened in 1912, Alan Ducasse took over the operation in 2005. Stick with the classics- snails in garlic butter, smoked- marinated salmon, and the cassoulet. It is conveniently located near the Pompidou Centre.
20 Rue St-Martin
33 1 42 72 25 76
Aux Lyonnais - This Lyonnais bistro bases the day's menu on the market's freshest ingredients of that day. The menu is inventive and solid- pike dumplings, skate meuniere, a fine charcuterie platter, great coq au vin and for dessert- a cointreau soufflé. The wine list favors the macon and rhone regions.
32 Rue St-Marc
33 1 42 96 65 04
Brasserie Lipp - This is a Left Bank institution, home to intellects, artists and politicians. Hemmingway was the first customer after the city's liberation. Charcuterie is their speciality- you get sauerkraut with sausage, ham, and pork
and the portions are copious. Wash it down with a glass of the house reisling or one of their many great beers.
151 Blvd St-Germain
33 4 45 48 53 91
Le Dome - Once frequented by Trotsky, this is a seafood lovers' haven. Great oysters and bouillabaisse and the catch of the day is always reliable. The crowd is slightly older and more sophisticated.
108 Blvd du Montparnasse
33 1 43 35 25 81
Chez Paul - Located near the Bastille, the atmosphere is homey and the place is always full. The food is very unpretentious- try the salad with warm goat cheese.
13 Rue de Charonne
33 1 47 11 34 57
L'Astrance - The décor is contemporary and the food is modern at this small, charming spot.
4 Rue Beethoven
33 1 40 50 84 40
Brasserie La Bofinger - Near the Bastille, the service is quite fast paced and the décor includes an ornate stained glass ceiling, and mirrors. The menu is varied- charcuterie, roasted lobster, magret du canard and always good seafood specials.
5 Rue de la Bastille
33 1 42 72 87 82
Le Comptoir - Great values and simple but good brasserie food in a casual setting. Lately, the chef has been getting great reviews.
9 Carrefour de l'Odeon
33 1 44 22 07 97
Grand Vefour - Expensive but worth it, eating here is like eating in a 3 star museum. Established in 1760, they have hosted Napoleon and Victor Hugo. Be sure to reserve well in advance for dinner. Lunch is just as good, but give yourself all day!
17 Rue Beaujolais
33 1 42 96 56 27
La Fontaine de Mars - This bistro is tucked away on a quiet street and is everything a small restaurant should be. Great wine list and good simple dishes- try the boudin noir or the cassoulet.
129 Rue St Dominique
33 1 47 05 46 44
Jamin - Benoit Guichard, the chef-owner is a disciple of Joel Robuchon. The décor conjures an English country manor. The menu which fluctuates with the seasons, is a blend of traditional French and innovative discoveries by the chef. This is very expensive.
32 Rue de Longchamp
33 1 45 53 00 07
Le Bistro Paul Bert - This place gets boisterous and crowded; the fish and seafood is always the freshest and the steak with fries is a specialty; great wine list, too
18 Rue Paul Bert
33 1 43 72 24 01
21 Rue Mazarine - This modern, elegant bistro specializes in fish; confit of sardines, fresh herring, and squid risotto are all great
21 Rue Mazarine
33 1 46 33 76 90
Brasserie Fernand - Tons of regulars flock here- simply prepared plates, meat is their specialty and the quality is superb; I really like this place
13 Rue Guisarde
33 1 43 54 61 47
35 Ouest - Right around the corner from the Musee d'Orsay, this tiny restaurant specializes in fish; try the tartare, filet of sole, or fresh langoustines
35 Rue de Verneuil
33 1 42 86 98 88
Le Severo - Chef owned by a former butcher, this place has fantastic meat dishes and a blackboard wine list that has some nice selections
8 Rue des Plantes
33 1 45 40 40 91
Casa Olympe - This charming bistro specializes in fare from the owner's native Corsica; smoked eggplant and beef cheeks in a chive vinaigrette are both great
48 Rue Saint-Georges
33 1 42 85 26 01
Mon Viele Ami - This bright and modern Alsatian bistro has good pate, veal dishes, and the confit of apples with vanilla and pistachio ices cream is fantastic
69 Rue Saint-louis en L'Ile
33 1 40 46 01 35
Astier - This small, neighborhood bistro has great rabbit and the wine list has a lot of gems; this place can be fun loving and noisy
44 Rue Jean Pierre Timbaud
33 1 43 57 16 35
Le Soleil - Located near the flea markets, this place has great ambience and the owner is a fanatic about his ingredients; he is known for the baba au rum
109 Avenue Michelet
33 1 40 10 08 08
Table de Fes - The Best Moroccan restaurant in Paris, I think; great couscous, sausages, and tanjines
5 Rue Sainte-Beuve
33 1 45 48 29 94
Le Petit Marguery - This lively place is known for its game and the fish is good too; the grand marnier soufflé is a must
9 Blvd du Port Royal
33 1 43 31 58 59
Fish la Boissonnerie - Great wine bar which serves wonderful bread from the bakery across the street
69 Rue du Seine
33 1 43 54 33 47
La Cabane a Huitres - This tiny gem (22 seats) is run by an oyster farmer from bordeaux and the menu reflects the region; it is charming, fun, good and inexpensive
4 Rue Antoine Bourdelle
33 1 45 49 47 27
The Jules Verne Restaurant - Located on the second platform of the Eiffel Tower, this tourist mecca not only has spectacular views, it has pretty good food as well.
2nd Floor Eiffel Tower
Champ de Mars, Paris
33 1 45 55 61 44
L'Atilier - Joel Robuchon operated, this swank and stylish spot features a u-shaped bar where all of the diners have a view of the open kitchen. Try the lamb shoulder with couscous and raisins, smoky bacon and chicken liver terrine, or caramelized quail glazed with shallot sauce. The service here is excellent.
5-7 Rue de Monalembert
33 1 42 22 56 56
Willi's Wine Bar - Over 250 wines on the list, great specials too; every year they commission a contemporary artist to create an image for their limited edition collection, these are often whimsical and are prominent throughout the dining room; gorgeous polished oak bar
13 Rue des Petits-Champs
33 1 42 61 05 09
Bertihillon - Many refer to this as the best ice cream in the world; it draws lines even in the winter. The ice creams and sorbets taste exactly like the products they are made from and the selections are seasonal
Rue St Louis en L'ile
33 1 43 54 31 61
Fauchon - This uberdelicatessen is divided into 3 sections- an epicerie (for jams, exotic goods, crackers and pasta), a patissier (breads, pastries, and chocolates), and a traiteur (cheeses, terrines, caviar, etc), the inventory is massive and some prices are steep but for food lovers, this is it!
26 Place de la Madeline
33 1 47 42 91 10
Pierre Hermes - Great pastries and very expensive, especially the macaroons. The lines can get long, but it's worth the wait
72 Rue Bonaparte
33 1 43 54 47 77
Lauderee - What began as a small bakery opened by a miller in 1862 is today 9 locations strong. It is part tearoom, restaurant, patisserie, ice cream parlor, and chocolate shop. The macaroons are famous (crisp on the outside and soft on the inside) and each season they create a new flavor
75 Ave des Champ-Elysees
33 1 40 75 08 75
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Provence and Cote D'Azur
Avignon:
Oustau de Baumaniere - You will feel like you are visiting an 18th century country estate. There are 3 stone houses, all draped with flowering vines. They perfectly blend tradition and modernity in an exotic setting. There is a great pool and lovely olive trees. The restaurant serves a lamb en croute which has become their signature dish.
13520 Les Baux de Provence
33 04 90 54 33 07
Moustiers-Ste-Marie:
La Bastide de Moustiers - This is a lovely 17th century country estate (bastide) situated in the hills and surrounded by beautiful gardens. It is owned and operated by Alain Ducasse. The boned and stuffed rabbit and the cocotte of spring vegetables are especially good. The menu changes seasonally.
Chemin de Quinson
Moustiers-Ste-Marie, Provence
33 04 92 70 47 47
Chateau-Arnoux:
La Bonne Etape - Very old fashioned, this 18 room chateau boasts beautiful gardens and an excellent restaurant. The countryside is beautiful. This property is a member of Relais and Chateau
Chemin du Lac
04160 Chateau-Arnoux
33 04 92 64 00 09
Marseilles:
Le Petite Nice - The best in Marseilles, this hotel/restaurant has gorgeous views of the surf. The rooms are all decorated very exquisitely. Menu highlights are the truffled brandade, whole fish, and licorice soufflé.
Anse de Maldorme
Corniche J.F. Kennedy, Marseilles
33 04 91 59 25 92
Michele Brasserie des Catalans - Although the décor is rustic (lobster traps and starfish), the food is first rate. The bouillabaisse and bourride (fish stew with aioli) are exceptional.
6 Rue des Catalans, Marseilles
33 04 91 52 30 63
St-Paul-De-Vence:
La Colombe d'Or - This 26 room 16th century farmhouse sits inside the walled medieval village of St Paul-De-Vence. They boast an impressive art collection with works by Matisse, Picasso, and Calder. You can dine outside among the fig trees. The pool is not to be missed- it has inlaid mosaic tiles. I love this place
Place de Gaulle, St-Paul-De-Vence
33 04 93 32 80 02
St. Tropez:
Residence de la Pinede - Only a 5 minute walk to the beach and a 5 minute drive to downtown St Tropez this luxury hotel has a premier location. It is very expensive.
Plage de la Bouillabaisse
St Tropez
33 04 94 55 91 00
Le Club 55 - This is a well-groomed private beach club made popular when Brigitte Bardot filmed And God Created Woman there. It is often referred to as the Beverly Hills of beach clubs- packed with movie stars and aristocrats. The restaurant serves surprising good food, simply prepared. Go and you may not want to leave.
Plage de Pampelonne
33 04 94 55 55 55
Byblos Saint-Tropez - Built as a little Mediterranean village, each of the rooms is uniquely decorated in the Provencal manner. Many have patios overlooking the flower gardens. The restaurant, Spoon, is run by Alain Ducasse. This is a hot spot with the in-crowd
Av Paul Signac, St Tropez
33 04 94 56 68 00
Vence:
Le Chateau du Domaine St. Martin - Luxury and refinement at its best. You can stroll in the 14 acre garden and relax later in one of the spacious rooms. (There are suites as well) The restaurant is very good or try the poolside grill.
Av des Templiers, Vence
33 04 93 58 02 02
Antibes:
Hotel du Cap Antibes - Opened in 1870, this is one of the most luxurious properties on the Riviera. Many rooms have views of the Mediterranean and the furnishing throughout are elegant. The 22 acres include a tropical forest and rock garden and the swimming pool was blasted out of a cliff. No credit cards, can you believe it?
Bd. J.F. Kennedy, Antibes
33 04 93 61 39 01
Restaurant de Bacon - This restaurant is located on a rocky peninsula with panoramic views of the coast. The terrace is lovely. The fish here is impeccable. Great spot to stop on the way between Nice and Cannes.
664 Blvd de Bacon, Antibes
33 04 93 61 50 02
Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat:
Grand Hotel du Cap-Ferrat - Located at the tip of the Cap-Ferrat peninsula, this hotel sits within 14 acres of lush gardens. Opened in 1908, it was once the favorite of European royalty and the international jet-setters. It is conveniently located between Nice and Monaco. Super expensive!
71 Bd du Generale De Galle, Saint Jean Cap-Ferrat
33 04 93 76 50 50
La Viole D'Or - This hotel has 2 saltwater pools and a private beach. The rooms are furnished with antiques and many have balconies with panoramic coastal views.
31 Av De Jean-Mermoz, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
33 04 93 01 13 13
Hotel Royal-Riviera - Perched high on the peninsula with great views, this offers both intimacy and luxury. There a several private villas and a private beach
3 Av Jean-Monnet, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
33 04 93 76 31 00
Beaulieu-Sur-Mer:
La Reserve de Beaulieu - All 39 rooms have water views in this 19th century Florentine residence. There is live music at night and a great spa and pool.
5 Bd du LeClerc, Beaulieu-Sur-Mer
33 04 93 01 00 01
Mougins:
Located just 5 miles north of Cannes, the town of Mougins is an alternative for those who want to distance themselves form the hustle and bustle. The town was once fortified and sits on a hill overlooking The Bay of Cannes. Picasso spent the latter part of his life here.
Le Moulin de Mougins - This 16th century olive mill sits amid lovely gardens and was formerly owned and operated by Roger Verge. Now it is run by Alain Llorca; the food is earthy but upscale offering modern twists on Provencal favorites. Start out with a caramel champagne cocktail and try the artichoke heart stuffed with marinated seafood and the magret of duck with honey sauce. The setting here is lovely.
Av. Notre Dame de Vie, Mougins
33 04 93 75 78 24
Eze:
Chateau de La Chevre D'Or - Dine on their terrace set in the hills above the Mediterranean and enjoy the best views of St Jean Harbor. Their rooms are elegant and the medieval town of Eze has an old-world charm.
Rue du Barri, Eze
33 04 92 10 66 66
Chateau Eza - This charming hotel is housed in a stone castle and sits 1,300 feet above the sea, with spectacular views. The streets are too narrow for a car so you must walk from the town, but it is a short walk. Your luggage, however, arrives by donkey. This place is very romantic. There is a fine restaurant with spectacular views of the harbor. Sit inside or outside on the terrace.
Rue de la Pise, Eze
33 04 93 41 12 24
Aix-en-Provence:
Villa Gallici - Only 18 rooms occupy this country house surrounded by lovely gardens that are bathed in light. They serve traditional Provencal cuisine accompanied by very good wines of the region.
Avenue de la Violette, Aix-en-Provence
33 04 42 23 29 23
La Clos de la Violette - With a stylish and seasonal menu, that highlights the flavors of the Provence region nicely. You can dine outside under the chestnut trees or inside in the cozy dining room. Try the herb encrusted lamb and the lavender crème brulee
10 avenue de la Violette
13100 Aix-en-Provence
33 04 42 23 30 71
St-Mathieu:
Bastide St Mathieu - Conveniently located close to the beach and the mountains, this hotel has lovely gardens and many of the rooms have large fireplaces. Mid-way between Cannes and Grasse, the perfume capital of the world.
35 Chemin de Blumenthal, St Mathieu
33 04 97 01 10 00
Grasse - The town of Grasse is situated at 1300 feet in elevation about 12 miles north of Cannes and is known as the perfume capital of the world. There are several very good museums, one dedicated to the art and history of the Provence region, and the other, to the 3000 year history of perfuming. The old part of the town consists of narrow streets winding through arched tunnels and between 17th -18th century buildings There are a number of caves to explore in the hills north of Grasse and the town offers an interesting walking tour.
Cannes:
Hotel Martinez - Enjoy the sun and "joie de vivre" from your private terrace overlooking the French Riviera. This modern hotel has all the modern amenities you could ask for. This is the place to see and be seen.
73 la Croisette, Cannes
33 04 92 98 73 00
InterContinental Carlton - For over 100 years, this grand hotel has been a mecca for celebrity, especially during the film festival.
58 Bd de la Croisette, Cannes
33 04 93 06 40 06
Majestic Barriere - This historic hotel offers refinement and comfort. Many rooms have ocean rooms and the restaurant has 2 Michelin stars
10 La Croisette, Cannes
33 04 92 98 77 00
Nice:
Hotel Negresco - The hotel/palace is an architectural monument in itself filled with art and antiques dated from Louis XIII to modern. Lovely although a bit dated
37 Promenade des Anglais, Nice
33 04 93 16 64 00
Palais de la Mediterranee - This is a landmark in Nice. There is a lovely indoor/outdoor pool and terrace with spectacular views. The décor is Art-Deco throughout.
13-15 Promenade des Anglais, Nice
33 04 92 14 77 00
Lorges:
Chez Bruno - This restaurant was awarded a Michelin star for its traditional French cuisine. Many dishes feature truffles as Clement Bruno is known as "The King of Truffles". There are also 4 lovely guest rooms.
Rue des Campagne Mariette, Lorgues
33 01 94 85 93 93
Ramatuelle:
Chez Camille - Formerly the home of a fisherman, this is right on the beach in Ramatuelle. All of the fish here is cooked over wood. They have great bouillabaisse and reasonable wines. This is some of the best seafood in France.
Rue de Bonne Terrasse, Ramatuelle
33 04 98 12 68 98
Golfe-Jean:
Tetou - A chic fish shack, this is the spot for the "in crowd". They only serve grilled fish and lobsters, a few salads and their world famous bouillabaisse. It has been in the same family since it opened in 1920. Take cash, they do not accept credit cards.
Ave des Freres-Roustand, Golfe-Juan
33 04 93 63 71 16
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